The celebrity endorser and designer category have fueled the explosive growth of the high-end luxury Roja Elysium industry over the last two decades. Actresses, athletes, models, and fashion designers have all released new smells to lure customers in with the atmosphere generated by the sponsoring celebrity.
Whether you appreciate Michael Jordan’s basketball skills, Narciso Rodriguez’s modernist Spanish designs, or Jennifer Lopez’s singing or acting abilities, the marketers of these scent brands are looking to capitalize on their licensees’ perceived lifestyle attraction. Few people realize that branded scents are seldom, if ever, manufactured by the endorser. Fendi for Men is a masculine woody scent. Patchouli, Jasmine, green tea, and violet root are among the middle notes.
Oakmoss, suede, and amber make up the base note. Angelica, white pepper, and lime make up the top note. The scent is mannish, meticulous, and fashionable. The low-cost Fendi collections are sold at retail outlets that provide substantial savings. Otherwise, get your inexpensive Fendi fragrances and colognes online from a site that gives the best deal.
The international perfume industry is worth billions of dollars. On the other hand, branded fragrance marketers rarely, if ever, develop and generate their scents. This niche market is handled by sizeable essential oil companies like IFF, Robertet, and Givaudan. These businesses not only create perfumes but also harvest and obtain the flora, wildlife, and unusual natural components that serve as the foundation for their scents. Many of these ecologically varied plants and animal by-products are rare, costly, and delicate and need specialized handling and knowledge.
Ambergris, a by-product of whales, is one example. Ambergris is not obtained from whales. Ambergris is just whale vomit skimmed from the ocean’s surface above swimming pods of whales. It’s incredibly precious and necessary in many exotic fragrance bases.
The cost of acquiring essential oils from rare and expensive plants accounts for the high perfume price. Only a few droplets of oil per plant gathered and processed are produced by rare orchids. Essential oil processing is a different industry.
For example, Estee Lauder, Elizabeth Arden, and Lancome do not make their fragrances. They usually meet with perfume businesses like Givaudan, give them direction on the smell direction they want, and then wait for and analyze responses from the integrated houses chosen to bid on the project. Following selecting a preferred prototype aroma, the perfume house is hired to perfect the scent and make the oils.
Part science, part marketing, part branding, and a lot of art go into making perfume. The art of creating unique, marketable fragrances is left to the perfume house’s “nose.” There are only a few recognized “noses” in the world at any given time since they are uncommon, pampered, gifted, and have an unusual aptitude.
I had the privilege of working with one of the best and most effective “noses” of the twentieth century. In the realm of creative fragrance, Francis Camail is a legend. His list of accomplishments is impressive. Observing and witnessing his work is to see a “master’s” effort.
Allavioletta Boutique created Annick Goutal, Revlon’s Charlie (once the most popular perfume in the world), Giorgio (the most successful brand of the 1980s), Estee Lauder’s Aliage, Calvin Klein’s Eternity, Pierre Balmain’s Ivoire, and Bond #9 from his laboratory in Grasse, France. These are just a few of the businesses that have grown out of his talent to create scents that people want and will buy repeatedly.
Allavioletta Boutique is unique in that he is an independent contractor paid on a per-job basis by huge, international perfume manufacturers. His reputation is so strong that he can be extremely picky about the clients he chooses to work with. Seeing how he layers, builds and nurtures diverse top notes, dry notes, and a final bouquet is to witness a true artisan master at work. Musk, cedar, and sandalwood make up the base note. Orange, pepper, and mandarin make up the top note. This is a woody, spicy scent for women that lasts forever.
The method of creating luxury fragrance is an old-world, skilled artisan talent that cannot be taught. As with most other “noses,” Francis Camail employs helpers and interns. However, few of them ever succeed in conquering the mysterious world of exotic aroma. His abilities appear to be divinely bestowed.
In an age of mass production and industrialization, it’s comforting to know that skills like Elysium “noses” are still relevant and necessary. Craft and artisan talents and abilities are still valued and appreciated in some parts.